I suspect that there is a short somewhere in the harness, just a question of where. The relay legs, one has constant 12v and the other has approx 6 volts with the switch wire unplugged in the trunk and the relay out. Any help is appreciated.Ĭlick to expand.I don't believe its reference voltage, as it goes from the relay to the switch in the trunk. My next step would be remove the dash, but I wanted to know if anyone else had experienced this before and could point me in a likely direction prior to me completely stripping the car to the frame. I know its a problem because the plastic underneath the fuel pump relay is discolored from heat. I've pulled the relay box under the hood and none of the wires there are damaged, all looking brand new. All the looms and the wire covers are intact and aren't damaged. My question is, has anyone seen this before and does anyone have any suggestions on where to go from here? I've removed the interior, short of the dash itself and I can't find a bad spot in the wiring from the front kicker panels to the trunk. In retrospect, all the problems are related. Bought a new brake light switch, never installed it, but the problem mysteriously went away. Then I also had a problem with the brake lights staying on. Occasionally, when putting the car in park the check engine light will come on, but go off in a few minutes. Removing all the fuses has no effect on the 6 volts.įurther gremlins I've noticed, sometimes the driver side seat won't hardly move forward, and this is a problem that has cropped up since summer. Obviously, I've got voltage feeding to ground somewhere, but I can't figure out where. Unplug the switch in the trunk, still has 6 volts. I unplug the fuel pump wiring harness underneath the car, and it still has 6 volts. The hot wire has 12 volts, and the relay switched leg going to the fuel pump has 6 volts, with the relay out. Taking a multimeter, I probe the legs going to the fuel pump. Swapping it with other relays had no effect. The last time it died, no tricks could get the fuel pump to come on. My first thought was that the relay was bad, so I would tap the relay and keep trying and eventually the fuel pump would kick on, and everything would be fine for weeks. This has been an intermittent problem for the past few months, only cropping up maybe 3 or 4 times since summer. The first problem: Fuel pump doesn't work. Fuel pump seems to be running okay, has new fuel filter, and all the new stuff I replaced, but something is causing it to stall after running for a minute or so.To begin with, the car is a 2002 Taurus with 3.0 24v. Can't drive it, as it stalls when you accelerate. Starts right back up again and does the same thing. Starts up nice, runs great for a minute, then begins to bog until it finally stalls. Replaced plugs and wires, EGR valve, IAC valve, PCV valve and hose, cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body, and replaced air filter. Sat for a couple of weeks before I could begin working on it. Several codes came up after he worked on it: P1150, P0155, P0303, PO316. Told her it needed a tune up and a new IAC. Found a couple of vacuum leaks (PCV and Air Intake Hose) and wrapped electrical tape around them. He tested fuel pressure, pump, etc., and changed fuel filter. She took it to a friend, who is a mechanic. Started bogging on her, then wouldn't accelerate, and finally stalled.
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